The Lone Star, Barbados

We’ve just come back from a really lovely holiday in Barbados. It is a huge treat to go away somewhere hot at this time of year, and we have come back refreshed and ready for Christmas.

I don’t think I have ever eaten so much fish and shellfish, but it seemed a shame not to when it was clearly so fresh. Most meat at the hotels and restaurants is imported, so hopefully it lowered the food miles a bit too!

There are two stand-out eating moments though. The first was after the ‘boys’ (R, my father and my brothers) went on a fishing trip. R caught the biggest fish, but only on the evidence of the tail, as a shark pinched the rest (not kidding!). It was therefore C’s kingfish that made it back to the hotel. There the chef was kind enough to cook it for us for lunch. About three hours from sea to plate, this couldn’t have been any fresher. It was blackened for us, and served with salad, and really could not have been any better.

The second was lunch at the Lone Star. The meal got off to a pretty good start as we arrived at the restaurant in a speed boat! It felt pretty swish stepping off the boat, rinsing our feet and then settling into the restaurant. Pity there weren’t more people there to witness it! It is in the most fabulous location on the beach, and definitely worth a trip for lunch rather than dinner so that you can enjoy the view.

Tuna tartare with mango salsa

I shared a starter, the tuna tartare with mango salsa. I couldn’t eat the salsa, which was getting rave reviews around the table, but the tuna itself was basically perfect. It was cut into slightly larger pieces than you customarily get with tartare, which gave it a bit more texture, and the sweet fish was perfectly offset by a hint of sesame oil. Other hits in the starters included R’s polenta coated calamari. I was particularly pleased he ordered this as I have missed out on calamari since I went gluten-free. The polenta worked really well as a coating as it gave it some extra crunch. My mother’s kingfish, which had been briefly seared, was also lovely, with the fish really being allowed to shine.

My main course was king prawns and scallops with thai red sauce and coriander mash. Again this was beautifully executed. The seafood was perfectly cooked, the sauce a lovely balance of spice and creamy coconut, and even the mash, which I was skeptical about, brought the whole thing together. My brother’s mussels were beautifully cooked, with an incredibly rich creamy sauce which was perfect for dipping chips in. The spicy pasta with mussels and prawns also elicited moans of pleasure around the table!

I justified a pudding to myself as I had been playing two hours of tennis every day, and so I went for the chocolate and pistachio mousse. This was very pretty, with its green and brown layers, but was a bit disappointing after what had gone before. It was served a bit too cold, which muted the flavours, and the texture was a bit too light for my taste.

Paradise

I have been dreaming about this meal ever since we came back, and have already started saving my pennies so that I can return!

Andre, La Rochelle (France)

For some reason I forgot to post this at the beginning of the posts about our trip to France, as that is where it fits chronologically. Andre has been our favourite place to eat out in La Rochelle since we started going to the area, and no trip would be complete without a visit here. When we flew out we ended up on the outskirts of La Rochelle at pretty much lunchtime, so a meal at Andre seemed to be the perfect way to start the holiday.

This place is absolutely huge. Over time they have taken over the adjoining premises, and now the restaurant can do over 500 covers. It doesn’t seem to take the quality away though. They had rebranded since we were last there, and it all looked a bit more modern and freshly painted.

We managed to bag the last table on the terrace, and after a cursory glance at the menu both of us went for a mini ‘fruits de mer’. This consisted of 4 oysters, 4 prawns, 4 langostine and 4 whelks each. Accompanied by bread for R and chips for me, and large amounts of homemade mayonnaise, this was a truly great meal, and came in at about €40 for the two of us, which for the quality was well worth it. There is nothing that says you are on holiday more to me than eating shellfish while being able to smell the sea!

L'Entracte, La Rochelle (France)

Having managed eating out really easily on the Ile de Re, it suddenly became really hard at L’Entracte. I suppose this is because the emphasis wasn’t on seafood in the same way. Still, we managed to explain the problem eventually, and had a great meal. Once we had managed to explain that I couldn't eat flour the staff could not have been more helpful.

This restaurant is part of the Coutanceau empire in La Rochelle, which includes a two Michelin star restaurant, a seafood place and this ‘modern bistro’. There is also a cookery school, and it all reminds me a bit of Rick Stein in Padstow, which certainly is not a bad thing. Gregory has now joined his father Richard in cooking in the restaurants.

L’Entracte has a very modern feel when you walk in, and the waiters were all charming and chatty as we arrived. We decided the set menu looked good (again), although I had to have my smoked salmon without the accompanying potato goufre (waffle). R had it though, and what arrived had been made in an old-fashioned waffle iron, and certainly got full marks for presentation, although apparently it was a bit bland.

I then went for the duck. We had identified that it came with cabbage and mille feuille potatoes, but I wasn’t expecting it to be shredded duck wrapped in a cabbage leaf. Unfortunately it was full of onion and I wasn’t sure what else was in it, so I swapped it for R’s fish. I am the least fussy person when it comes to food, so I hated having to do this, but if the diet makes me feel better then I am determined to get it right. The fish was perfectly cooked, and the potatoes were also delicious. Full marks also to R who was prepared to give up the meal he had chosen for his unhelpful wife!

For pudding I had ice cream and chocolate sauce. My father’s pear wrapped in pastry (I can’t remember the official name!) looked seriously tasty, and he seemed very reluctant to share it! Everyone else had strawberries in orange syrup, which was a light and fresh way to end the meal.

Le Skipper, Ile de Re (France)

The view from the restaurant

For our second night we ventured a bit further afield, and went to St Martin-de-Re. We had a drink while the sun set, and then wandered about a bit looking at menus before deciding on Le Skipper. Unfortunately we were too late to nab an outside table, but the interior was very smart, with a Ralph Lauren feel.

Again we had the set menu, which was €26. I started with sashimi, which didn’t seem very French, but it did seem appropriate given that we could see the sea from where we sat. It was melt in the mouth, and came with a great coriander sauce as well as soy. R started with six oysters, which were on even the cheapest set menus as the Ile de Re is one of the main French producers. R had never eaten an oyster when we met, so I am rather proud of him now!

I then had dorade, which I think is bream. This was simply but perfectly cooked, and accompanied by a rather bland ratatouille. The fish was definitely the star at this restaurant, and all of the accompaniments were second thoughts rather. It didn’t matter though as we hugely enjoyed our fish.

To finish we had a pave au chocolat, with salt caramel (again). A lot of salt is produced on the Ile de Re, which I think is the reason salt caramel appears on so many menus (as well as in the form of ice cream – more on that later!).

The pave was absolutely fantastic, and for once we had both ordered the same thing, which is lucky or otherwise there might have been a fight! Rich creamy chocolate mousse sat on top of a wafer made of puffed rice and chocolate, with the caramel providing a wonderfully contrasting salty note.

I also need to add a quick note on the service, which was great. The staff didn't really speak any English, and I was trying to explain that I can't eat wheat in my schoolgirl French. We got there in the end, and the waitress was more than happy to check with the chef about the ingredients, and offer me an alternate if there was nothing on the set menu I could eat.

L'Ocean, Ile de Re (France)

We left planning our holiday rather late this year, as we weren’t quite sure how I was going to be feeling, and we had already had to cancel one trip this year. When my parents said they were taking a house near La Rochelle, and there was room for us, we decided to combine this with a few days on the Ile de Re, as we have wanted to go for ages.

After much discussion and internet searching we decided to stay at L’Ocean. No sooner had we booked it than friends turned out to have stayed there, and luckily they highly recommended it. Since we knew little about the area we booked a table in their restaurant for the first night, until we had time to get our bearings.

Everything on the Ile de Re was pretty expensive, particularly with the current exchange rate, but the set menus still seemed to offer good value. Here the three course menu came in at €24. I started with smoked salmon, which was not the most exciting option, but tasty and came with a well-dressed salad.

Then I had a cassoulette de mer. This was mixed seafood and fish, including mussels, prawns, squid and white fish, cooked in a thick tomato sauce with mushrooms and fennel. The sauce and fish were lovely, but the mussels and squid had got rather overcooked and rubbery.

For dessert I had what appeared to be a local speciality – caramalised baked bananas with salt caramel. The bananas had been split in half and sprinkled with brown sugar before being baked in a hot oven, which created a brulee-like crust on the banana. The salt caramel contrasted beautifully with the warm slightly crunchy banana. All-in-all a great end to the meal, and a good start to the holiday.