French Markets and Caponata

Eating out may have been expensive on the Ile de Re, but we knew we were following it with four days of self-catering, and the markets made the whole thing just as much of a treat as going to a restaurant. Even the tiny village that we were staying in on the Ile de Re had a daily market, which put anything local to us at home to shame. It wasn't huge, but there were a couple of butchers, a couple of fishmongers, a few fruit and veg stalls and lots of cheese and patisserie.

We took 3 dozen oysters with us to share with my parents, which cost less than €10! We bought some merguez sausages to go with them, as the hot, spicy sausage makes a great contrast with the cold salty oysters.

Steak was also purchased to go on the barbeque, as well as pate and rillettes for lunch, and a large amount of cheese. It’s no wonder we had to swim 50 lengths every day! I also indulged in my holiday treat of Nutella for breakfast (on oatcakes). It went some way to making up for not being able to eat the croissants and baguette everyone else was tucking into, although not quite the same.

I have to mention the pecorino with truffle that friends of my parents brought from Italy. This stuff was seriously addictive, with a powerful truffle flavour. They also brought figs from their tree, which not only were enjoyed fresh for breakfast, but also stuffed with goat’s cheese and baked in a hot oven. I think I want to go back!

I’ll finish with a recipe, although the quantities are guesswork since there were no scales in the house. Delicious with cold meats, cheese and bread for lunch.

Caponata

2 aubergines
1 medium onion
5 large tomatoes
Glug of vinegar (wine vinegar is traditional, but we only had balsamic)
Dessert spoon of sugar
Dessert spoon of capers
Small handful of raisins
Small handful of pine nuts
Large handful of chopped flat leaf parsley

Chop the aubergines into small cubes, put into a colander with a sprinkling of salt, and leave to drain. Meanwhile chop the onions and cook gently in a little oil. Once the onions are soft remove from the pan, add some more oil and cook the aubergine until soft and golden.

Put the onions back in the pan and add the tomatoes, having peeled and chopped them. Cook gently for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes have broken down and formed a sauce. Add the sugar and vinegar, and cook for another 5 or so minutes. Turn the heat off, add the capers, raisins, pine nuts and parsley, stir well and leave to cool.